Sleep where the steppe meets the sun.

East into the Chong-Kemin valley, a forested basin between two national parks. Afternoon options: horseback riding along the river, a walk to Zhashyl-Kol (Emerald Lake), or an eagle-hunting demonstration with a local falconer. Overnight at a valley lodge.

Back down the gorge and around via Balykchy, at the lake's western tip, then east along the north shore to Cholpon-Ata for a beach afternoon and a swim.

Inland to Kochkor, then up over Kyzart Pass on a rough jeep track climbing to the Song-Kol plateau at 3,016 m. Arrive at a family-run yurt camp on the lakeshore by late afternoon.

Horseback riding across the jailoo, felt-making with the host family, a sky with no ambient light for a hundred kilometers. A day for altitude and quiet.

A long, rough transfer south-west through the village of Kyzyl-Oi and over the mountains into Suusamyr, a high grazing basin at 2,200–2,600 m ringed by 4,500 m peaks. Evening kymyz — fermented mare's milk — with a herding family.

Back over the Too-Ashuu pass, through its 2.7 km tunnel, and down into the Chuy valley to Bishkek.

Same first day as the Song-Kol loop: horseback riding, Emerald Lake, or an eagle-hunting demonstration, overnight at a valley lodge.

Around via Balykchy to the north shore for a beach afternoon at Cholpon-Ata before heading inland.

Via Kochkor and Kyzart Pass to the Song-Kol plateau at 3,016 m. Yurt camp on the lakeshore.

Horseback riding, felt-making, and an early night — tomorrow is a long drive.

South over the plateau's rim into Naryn town, the last real outpost before the border ranges. Time to collect the border-zone permit arranged in advance — required for tomorrow, no exceptions.

A slow climb by high-clearance 4x4 into the closed border zone — river fords, mud, scree — to Kel-Suu, a fjord-like lake at roughly 3,500 m held between canyon walls, one of the least visited and most dramatic lakes in the country. Overnight at a yurt camp on the shore — real beds, not a tent.

Retrace the route back out of the border zone to Naryn for a hot meal and a real bed.

The long haul back over the mountains to Bishkek, closing the loop.

Out of the city and along the Chuy valley to Kyrgyzstan's "second sea." Afternoon on the beach at Cholpon-Ata — a swim in water warm enough by August — and a walk through the Bronze-Age petroglyph field on the hillside above town.

Along the lake's quiet north-east corner into Karakol, the region's old garrison town. An afternoon on foot past the timber houses, the Dungan mosque built without a single nail, and the wooden Orthodox cathedral, then the bazaar for dried fruit and felt goods before an early night.

A rattling off-road climb by 4x4 up the Arashan gorge into a high valley ringed by snow peaks — no hiking required, the jeep does the climbing. First soak in the outdoor hot springs by evening. Overnight at a guesthouse in the valley — real beds and a wood stove, not a tent.

A day with nowhere to be. More hot springs, a slow breakfast, and whatever energy you've got — an easy walk along the valley floor, a short horseback ride, or just a chair by the water. For anyone up for it, there's also the ride to Ala-Kul — about 2.5 hours on horseback each way (5 hours round trip) plus a 30-minute hike at the top — easily the toughest, longest stretch on any of our trips, but the lake makes it worth it. Built for a group that wants the scenery without needing to earn it.

Back down the gorge by jeep into Karakol by early afternoon. Free time in town — the bazaar, a proper coffee — before an early dinner.

West to Jeti-Oguz, the "Seven Bulls" — red sandstone ridgelines and the split rock known as the Broken Heart — for a short valley walk, then on to Barskoon for the evening.

An easy morning at the three waterfalls tumbling through Barskoon gorge, past the memorial to Yuri Gagarin, who recovered here after his flight. The rest of the day is open — village walks, a banya, or just resting up before the last push north.

A short hop to Skazka — Fairytale Canyon — a maze of red, pink and ochre rock carved by wind and water, then the long transfer around the lake and over into Chong-Kemin valley, arriving by evening at a valley lodge.

A free morning for horseback riding along the Chong-Kemin river or a walk to Zhashyl-Kol, the valley's "Emerald Lake," before the short drive back into Bishkek.